Use of SILICONE within COSMETICS

The reason for the massive use of silicones in cosmetics is linked to their chemical structure.
In recent years, the conscious purchase of beauty products has increased, especially due to the ease of acquiring information on the Internet.

To choose our own “cosmetic” we increasingly resort to reading the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) and its “decoding” using more or less correct tools from a technical point of view (e.g. “biodictionary”, online forum, blogger, etc.). If at first this attitude could be attributed more to a medium-low consumer target, now things are changing.

Many substances have ended up straight in the sights of consumers because consensus towards green, organic products is growing: petrolatum, silicones, parabens (indiscriminately) and SLES are experienced as undesirable elements in INCI.

WHAT ARE THEY?

Let’s discover their composition.

Silicones are polymers, i.e. chains of silicon-oxygen monomers. The bond between the various monomers – unlike what happens in vegetable oils where the Carbon-Carbon bond is present – is extremely flexible and elastic. The silicone therefore adapts perfectly to the surface on which it rests, creating a non-occlusive viscous-elastic film capable of immediately improving the appearance of the skin, a silky and sophisticated film to the touch. The chains can be more or less long, generating more or less volatile silicones. Functional groups can be “hooked” along the chain, which enrich and differentiate its properties, generating real “active excipients” for skin care.

The most recently produced silicones save production as they can be cold processed; furthermore, they are water-repellent and well-smoothening, making ointments and massage creams less greasy and sticky. Silicone emulsions do not turn rancid, do not irritate and are free of toxicity. For these reasons they can also be used in the baby skincare (cosmetics for children). Many cosmetic preparations have received notoriety and fortune thanks to the use of these products. In fact, once applied to the skin, they generate a pleasant sensation of “velvety skin” thanks to their chemical characteristics.

REASON WHY…

Some technical answers relating to the usual “reasons why” silicones are opposed

Is it true that…cosmetic silicones are derived from the combination of silicon and oil substances?

Silicones and petroleum jellies are different chemical substances. Let’s clarify this straight away. Petroleum jellies (also called hydrocarbons or mineral fats) are a class of chemical compounds derived from oil refining; among these, the best known is vaseline or liquid paraffin. Silicones, on the other hand, are semi-organic polymers that are obtained from silica.

Is it true that…silicones can cause dry skin, block pores and facilitate blackheads?

The opposite is true. Silicones can be used in the cosmetic field just as moisturizing agents. They act through an indirect hydration mechanism, i.e. they create a film on the surface of the skin, capable of retaining water, preventing excessive evaporation. However, being highly hydrating substances, they should not be used improperly or excessively because they could inhibit the physiological mechanism of skin hydration.
However, as regards open blackheads or comedones, they are due to the accumulation of sebum, keratin and microorganisms inside the hair follicles. Therefore, it is oily and non-silicone substances, such as hydrocarbons, which could block the pilosebaceous ostia and cause the appearance of comedones following their prolonged action.
However, even these latter substances are not to be avoided at all. They can bring benefits to the skin if used appropriately, i.e. when there is an indication and on the right type of skin.

Is it true that…silicones are not biodegradable and are highly polluting substances?

Silicone derivatives are not biodegradable. However, it is not necessarily the case that a cosmetic ingredient of plant origin is safer in terms of impact on the environment (from production to disposal). Exemplary is the case of zinc oxide, considered an “”ecological”” physical sun filter and better than so-called chemical filters. In terms of environmental impact on the marine system, for instance, it is a highly harmful substance. Therefore, the commitment on the part of the institutions to manage and monitor the environmental impact of all the different types of cosmetic products over time is fundamental. This is an approach that can be traced back not so much to the individual product, but to a company policy borne by those who formulate and manufacture.
An example for everyone: silicone is cold processed, with much lower energy impacts than vegetable oils.
And again: we avoid volatile silicones, whose release into the atmosphere is uncontrolled (cyclopentasixolane) in favor of non-volatile silicones, which can be removed using the hydraulic channels then destined for purifiers.

WATER IS the prerequisite FOR LIFE

And we could end here. But perhaps, speaking of skin, it is worth clarifying some concepts.

The skin is in constant exchange with water: structured to not let it in – let’s dispel the myth of the skin “drinking” – it actually lets it out through the TEWL just enough to keep our body healthy. At the same time, it is activated to remain hydrated, soft and velvety; this is possible thanks to the functionality of the horny layer (stratum corneum) which guarantees the so-called NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) and the production of sebum, both at the basis of the balance of the hydrolipidic mantle.

Skin – the wonderful “fabric” that covers us – is actually the most “technical” that exists.

However, it requires care and attention like all fabrics, starting from cleansing to a real daily routine to safeguard its beauty.

TWO STEPS: CLEANSING AND CARE

To be carried out with ritual, rigor and awareness of the facts.

Cleansing prepares the skin to receive the benefits of functional products, creating the perfect base, the untouched canvas on which to outline the beauty work of art. In the East they call it kimé, we call it skin texture. And that is the real strength.
The treatment focuses on hydration in order to prevent skin aging, improve firmness, redefine the shape of your face, smooth out features, promote cellular functions, give brightness, embellish the skin.
Beauty Spa makes it a working philosophy with its exclusive Aquablend: a combination of fully hydrating HP active ingredients.

AQUABLEND

Moisturizing concentrate

Aquablend is an innovative pool containing a combination of botanically derived active ingredients selected for their hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. The effectiveness lies in their integration and synergy, in the way they interact with the aim of guaranteeing perfect hydration to the skin. The base of Aquablend consists of a series of very strong natural moisturizers:

  1. Natural sugars: of plant origin, including Trehalose, Fructose and Maltose.
    In particular, Trehalose is obtained from an extremophile botanical species that inhabits the most desert areas of the planet and which survives despite levels of aridity that are in all respects incompatible with life. It integrates water into tissues and reduces dehydration-induced damage.
  2. Hyaluronic Acid: known for its highly moisturizing properties, it is a key component of the skin, which gives the skin strength and firmness, also improving its ability to repair from damage.
  3. Natural Moisturizing Factors: including urea, pyrrolidon carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, allantoin and glycerin, with humectant and physio-hydrating action. They are synthesized by the horny layer and boost cell proliferation with a long-lasting hydrating effect.

Base Blend MECHANISM AND ACTIVITY

Base Blend works on two levels:

  1. immediately, ensuring the right amount of hydration and emollience;
  2. in the long term, helping to improve the skin’s ability to manage water.

Considering that the benefits of the Base Blend last for many hours, in case of daily and repeated application it is possible to talk about real non-stop hydration.
In particular, the small hygroscopic molecules of the Base Blend penetrate the skin and rebalance the NMF mix, while specific film-forming polymers capture water and maintain the correct level of hydration, reducing water loss through evaporation and consequently skin dryness. This translates into perfect hydration and effective prevention of aging.

The activity of Base Blend, confirmed by clinical research studies

Short term
Measurement of skin hydration level.
20 subjects with normal skin, 1 application per day on the forearm, measurements after 1, 2 and 4 hours

Long term
Measurement of skin hydration level.
10 subjects with dry skin, 1 application per day on the forearm, measurements after 4, 24 and 48 hours.

VITAMINS AND AVENANTHRAMIDES

A high-fidelity pool for skin health

  1. Vitamin E or Tocopherol: it counteracts the harmful action of free radicals, helping to prevent skin aging and giving the skin a radiant, luminous, visibly healthy appearance.
  2. Vitamin B5 or Pantothenic Acid: it has undeniable hydrating properties that promote the integration of NMF while keeping the skin soft and elastic. It also has a hydrating, regenerating action, making the skin tissue more compact and firmer.
  3. Vitamin PP or Niacinamide: it contributes to significantly improving the skin barrier by promoting the increase in ceramides and barrier proteins, i.e. keratin and filaggrin. Also important is the improving action that Vitamin PP performs on the texture of the skin, mainly due to the reduction of sebum and the minimization of dilated pores.
  4. Avenanthramides: they are powerful polyphenols derived from Oats, a plant long known for its anti-inflammatory, calming properties. These active fractions have shown effectiveness in terms of attenuating redness, reducing skin inflammation and decreasing histamine release. And to top it off, an interesting antioxidant action, essential for preventing skin aging.”

AN exclusive BLEND DESIGNED BY Beauty Spa

Beauty Spa has created an exclusive Blend made up of three active ingredients that work in synergy for a powerful anti-spot and illuminating action.
The purpose is to consider the blemish of skin discoloration and treat it effectively starting from three areas:

  • the control of excessive melanin production
  • the treatment of skin inflammation underlying hyperpigmentation
  • skin renewal, essential to make the skin smoother, more even toned and luminous

These actions are admirably carried out by the Blend: a combination of Resorcinol and Bisabolol, Porcelain Flower and Licorice Extract.

The scientifically proven result is skin that regains its even tone, smoothness and luminosity day after day, and which progressively learns to defend itself from daily aggressions. Treatment and prevention – two in one.

RESORCINOL AND BISABOLOL

Three actions for an exponential effect.

Bisabolol and Resorcinol in combination – aka SymWhite® Plus – constitute a compound specifically designed for the treatment of skin blemishes and discoloration and reduction of the melanin content of the blemish and are capable of intervening on 3 levels.

  1. Decreased melanin content of the spot
    It is known that skin spots are due to excessive production of melanin, which results in hyperpigmentation of the area. The combined Bisabolol and Resorcinol intervene on this aspect, guaranteeing scientifically proven results.
  2. Antioxidant action
    Bisabolol and Resorcinol act as scavengers against Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). This translates into the reduction of inflammation which leads to melanocytic stimulation and a preventive intervention against skin aging.
  3. Inhibition of IL-1-α and TNF-α
    SymWhite® Plus is a powerful inhibitor of interleukin 1 alpha (IL-1-α), a cytokine that intervenes in the processes of tissue repair and which has a marked pro-inflammatory action. It also inhibits TNF-α, a cytokine involved in systemic inflammation, a member of a group of cytokines that stimulate the acute phase reaction.

PORCELAIN FLOWER

Crystalline transparencies.

The Porcelain Flower, or Hoya lacunosa, is an oriental flower with a crystalline, luminous appearance, used in traditional medicine for its soothing properties.
In particular, the Beauty Spa Porcelain Flower is grown in Thailand, on a farm that guarantees its traceability and, as a protected species, it ensures the sustainability of the species and the protection of biodiversity.

Its composition is ideal for the treatment of skin affected by discoloration and skin spots. In fact, it contains terpenes, flavonoids and phytosterols with a soothing, protective and revitalizing action, ideal for dealing with the delicate issue of skin inflammation.

Furthermore, its transparent, crystalline, fragile and luminous image is associated with the concept of perfection and the reflection of light, essential to give the face a radiant look, in line with the most modern “nude trend”.

LICORICE EXTRACT

Ancient remedies.

Perfectionist boasts a Licorice extract titrated in Glycyrrhetinic Acid – a milestone in the treatment of skin inflammation.
In fact, it contains a constituent that interrupts the stimulation of an enzyme underlying the production of melanin.
Furthermore, its soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-reddening properties make it an essential active ingredient in the treatment of skin affected by discoloration and brown spots.

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OZONE AND ITS BENEFICIAL properties

The Ozoceutica line boasts a new version of the Ozone Beauty Spa: the enhanced Super-Ozone Sesazone 6000.
Produced in Cosmoproject’s “Ozone Chamber“, it is a high-performance ingredient, today with a molecule capable of incorporating a greater percentage of Ozonides. The dynamizing effect has high added value.

Ozone is formed during thunderstorms as a result of electrical discharges, and its typical odor is easily noticeable.

There are legends that tell of the ancient thousand-year old wisdom of Eastern monks who would place bowls of oil to oxidize in the air – well protected from the rain – in order to be able to act as a substrate for oxygen, precisely by virtue of the oxidation.

The proceeds were a thick liquid, somewhat unpleasant to sight and smell, but incredibly rich, so much so that it was considered a panacea that cured every ailment, an elixir of life, shaped by the wind and son of thunder.

OZONE TODAY

And its key role in Beauty Spa products.

Despite so many virtues and so much power, Ozone could not be used in the cosmetic field for a long time, due precisely to one of its founding characteristics: instability, which led it to decompose, releasing oxygen.

Today, thanks to the technology of ozonation of unsaturated substrates, a catalytic reaction of addition of Ozone obtained from superpure oxygen and Sesame oil can be created, which translates into a new stable, bio-available active ingredient: Sesazone 6000 – the Superozone chemically standardized which allows biological oxygen to be brought to the skin in large amounts and with full-blown effects.

Months of oxidation and powerful storms are no longer needed to obtain it: this process of creating Superozone now takes place in the “Ozone chamber” of Cosmoproject – a leading company in the cosmetics industry, based in Parma, where special reactors reproduce the ozonation process typical of thunderstorms, guaranteeing a stable and hyper-enhanced active ingredient.

Sesazone 6000 is the key active ingredient of the brand new OZOCEUTICA line by Beauty Spa, to bring all the energy of this unique resource to the spa centers and beauty parlors and to at-home treatments.

OZONE PROPERTIES

  • Skin dynamization
  • Anti-aging action: the benefits in terms of reduction of the signs of aging are evident (fewer and less deep wrinkles), as is the improvement in the brightness of the complexion and cellular vitality.
  • Sanitizing action: Ozone boasts a proven sanitizing action against viruses and bacteria, essential especially in places where the skin requires maximum protection (for instance, swimming pools and gyms).
  • Re-epithelializing action: Ozone improves the skin’s ability to regenerate and stimulates skin re-epithelializing activity, proving essential in the case of skin that is sensitized, damaged or affected by environmental agents. It is essentially an excellent s.o.s. active ingredient to help the skin recover its comfort and well-being in the most difficult moments.

Ultimately, thanks to the use of products enriched with this active ingredient, the skin tissue finds the way to work better, repair daily damage and prevent hypoactivity. With benefits on cellulite, critical areas and now also on stretch marks thanks to the re-epithelializing skill of this special active ingredient.

THE wisdom OF THE ANCIENTS

The ancient Asians used to consider Ozone as a panacea against all ailments.
They were not wrong: it is a hyper-potent active ingredient, with great versatility, very useful for all skin types and essential in those situations that require special care and treatments.
These properties are today undisputed and proven by substantial clinical studies; by ensuring a surplus of energy to the cell, it “”reminds”” the skin how to carry out its daily work of recovery, repair and regeneration.

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